![]() I've used leather (one piece cut and sewn to fit and even strips) and even Gorilla duct tape. You can also shape the hilt to be more comfortable to hold (whittle, sand, etc.) and also cover them. I mostly don't finish the swords unless I wax them. Feel free to finish the wood anyway you want. Take the time to go over the finished sword and sand any sharp edges. You may have to adjust the fence a small amount so that the cut matches the other side. For the 4th (and last) cut, flip the piece so that the 1st cut is down towards the table and against the fence. 1st cut is still up, but away from the fence. For the 3rd cut you will flip the piece end-to-end so that "A" will now be cut first and "B" is towards you. For the 2nd cut, flip the piece so that the 1st cut is up and towards the fence. For the purpose of clarity we'll call the end now towards you "A" and the end that will be cut first "B". Less chance of a horrific injury when the kids are playing with the swords later. The idea is to get a crisp bevel on what will be the side of the blade and a small (1/8") flat spot on the "edge" of the blade. It should be exactly in the middle for the part of the sword blade in the air, and slightly past the middle for the part of the sword blade resting on the table. ![]() Follow along with the picture (crude, I know). When you've cut all your pieces (if you're making more than one sword) change the angle on the tablesaw to approximately 15 degrees. Rip a piece 1 3/4" x 1" x whatever length you desire (I ripped 48" pieces and later cut them down to 24"). ![]() I used white oak, but you could use maple, ash, cherry, red oak, etc. The blades are best made from a hardwood. ![]()
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